From Horns of Plenty

Stephen Yang for The Wall Street Journal

Ribollita with two poached eggs and cannellini beans at Goat Town.

Upon being seated for brunch at Goat Town, a good bet is to order the biscuits ($3) straightaway. Salty on top and not too dense, these little treats will arrive immediately and take the hunger edge off while you peruse the wide-ranging menu.

They're served with house-made poblano jam that was a happy accident in the kitchen. "We happened to have a lot of poblanos, and it became a popular item," said sous chef Gerardo Gonzalez.

The smoked-fish scramble ($11) is a house specialty that incorporates a soft, flavorful fish of the day. "The fish is cured, and then we smoke it with applewood," he said. "It's a nod to the East Village."

Big appetites will be satisfied with the fried chicken and waffles ($14), while vegetarians can tuck into the ribollita ($11), which includes two poached eggs in a parmesan broth and cannellini beans.

"I make it a point to have something for vegetarians that is hearty," said Mr. Gonzalez.

Afternoon drinkers have some good choices too in the michelada (Bloody Mary mix, beer and chile salt) and the Goat Town shandy, both $7.

Goat Town, 511 E. Fifth St., between avenues A and B in Manhattan, serving brunch Saturdays and Sundays between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.; 212-687-3641.

A version of this article appeared February 2, 2013, on page A18 in the U.S. edition of The Wall Street Journal, with the headline: From Horns of Plenty.